Oppi untracht biography of albert

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Have you ever wondered what an archive contains?

Sometimes the answer is thousands of boxes of paper files – but if we delve a little deeper into the boxes, the contents can be fascinating.

I will share with you my discovery of the ‘Oppi Untracht Associated Material’ photographic archive that I’ve been preparing for the move from Blythe House to the new Collection and Research Centre in East London. While listing more than 4, photographs, I learnt a lot about the donor and his lifelong passion for Indian and Nepalese jewellery and metalwork.

Oppi Untracht (17 November – 5 July ) was a renowned American scholar and photographer from New York who moved to Finland in He was a jewellery historian, teacher, trained metalworker and jeweller, with a long association with the V&A as a researcher and avid collector. (In this piece, I am going to call the photographer ‘Oppi’ as, after spending so much time with his archive, I began to feel a connection with the creator and his photographs.)

Oppi was a regular visitor to our Indian metalwork collections, which were stored in the basement of the V&A in South Kensington, and friends with several curators who shared his interests. In , he lectured at a conference at the V&A, ‘South Indian Jewellery: Secular and Sacred’.

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A Tasteful Tribute to an Exquisite Aesthetic

Quiet Elegance: The Jewelry of Eleanor Moty, ed. Matthew Drutt, with contributions by Bruce W. Pepich, Matthew Drutt, and Helen W. Drutt English. Stuttgart: Arnoldsche Art Publishers,

It is a well-established fact that European contemporary jewelers are better represented with beautifully designed, fully illustrated, scholarly monographs than their American counterparts, regardless of the latters’ contributions to the field. Whether or not the noted American metalsmith, author, educator, and specialist in jewelry from India and Nepal Oppi Untracht recognized this inequity, he bequeathed funds to his longtime friend and colleague, jewelry artist Eleanor Moty, so that her career could be properly documented. Quiet Elegance sets the paradigm for a monograph.[1]

This comprehensive, well-organized volume presents the voice of the pioneering Moty, whose career spans more than 50 years, with those of three illustrious curators and scholars: Bruce W. Pepich, executive director of the Racine Art Museum, who has been the force behind his institution’s significant holdings of art jewelry; Helen W. Drutt English, former gallery dealer, curatorial consultant, educator, and now grande dame of contemporary craft; and curator,